Tuesday, February 14, 2006

When Your 'Plumbing" Goes Bad!

Sunday 12 February 2006 was the annual Plumb Festival in Setagaya-Ku.

To celebrate the annaul arrival of the plumb blossoms it is common for everyone to gather in a large park in a suburb of Tokyo. In Japan, the Plum Trees flower a few weeks ahead of the celebrated Cherry Blossoms, and are thus heralded as the first sign of Spring. It is true; the days are longer now, and there are pleasant breaks in the cool weather as the weather is turning. However, we had been forewarned by Sandra and Jay that the festival seemed to be scheduled a little early in the season. Last year there were no blossoms out at all, and in the middle of the coldest winter in Japan in 60 years, the odds were very good that this would be a repeat performance! (In Ottawa we were very accustomed to the fickle habits of Mother Nature playing havoc with outdoor festivals. Ottawa has the winter festival called Winterlude, featuring skating on the canal, beautiful ice sculptures, and many events in the snow. Unfortunately, after all of the unseasonably warm weather that has plagued the event in the past decade, the locals now refer to the festival as Waterlude!)

So, on a cold and chilly day, (temperatures near zero, with a sharp and chilling wind stinging our faces), we sat off to check out this annual event. As it turned out, the predictions of catastrophe were entirely correct. There were pitiful few blossoms out; just one, in fact. What greeted us were the barren stumps and the stark limbs of the hundreds of plumb trees in the park. My theory was that we had misunderstood the name for the event; I think it was really the Numb Festival! We were freezing in the sharp wind that chilled one to the bone! And it was at this point that it began to dawn on me that this Plumb Festival thing was likely a scam vested on the naive and the inexperienced tourists (like ourselves) by sharpie merchants intent on squeezing some coin from their pockets. This is a photo of the single Plum Tree that was beginning to bloom; the blossoms are about 2 weeks behind!

At this point one might think that the day was destined to become a complet bust, and that the trip was a wate of time.

It well might have, but for our encounter with a man by the name of Iio (pronounced EE-O) Taichi.

Iio was out that very day, taking in some fresh air; he is a 'Sand Engineer' with an office job, so it was his day off. His wife is a hairdresser, and she was working that day until 8 pm. Iio just happened to be passing a stall down by the train station when he heard three gaijin, (us), trying to obtain directions to the local park in the area. He politely inquired if he could help, and, learning of our intention to visit the Plumb Festival, quickly informed us that it was 'too early'. He added that the blossoms would be out in two weeks, so we should come back then. But we indicated that we wanted to see the park anyway, so he just said 'Follow Me!', and off we set.

A five minute walk later we stood at the entrance to the park, and the awful truth was evident; no blossoms! Still, he led us through the park to the middle, where an open area was surround with stalls and benches. Then he wandered off, and we took in the scene with curiosity, thinking we might take a few photos and then head home. Me, with Iio, reviewing the map of the park.

However, Iio re-appeared a few minutes later with a large piece of Cotton Candy, which he offered to us as a 'traditional Japanese treat'. Munching away on the sticky fluff, we then stopped at a stall selling garden supplies. We had a great time trying to discover the Japanese words for all of the various types of vegetable as Sandra was interested in buying some unusual seeds for her brother, Rodger, who is an avid gardener back in Vancouver.

Next, Iio led us to the children's area, where, in addition to the usual slides, climbing sets and swings, a couple of roaring fires had been set. Gathered around the fires were children and their parents, roasting what at first glance appeared to be marshmellows on long bamboo poles. Suddenly, the genial Iio appeared at our side once again, this time with three of the poles, which had bread dough carefully wrapped on them. Handing them to us, he motioned to us to roast the dough on the fires. This we did, and while we lacked a certain amount of skill at this task, we made up for it with enthusiasm. I would have to add that the roasted bread was very good and flavourful, especially when buttered with jam or honey; this needs to become a custom in Canada!

Meanwhile, I also noticed that other children were holding big metal ladles over the fire, warming what I took to be Maple Syrup. They would then use a wooden stick to pry the congrealed sweet from the ladle, which they consumed eagerly. Elsewhere kids were sawing wood, pounding nails, and all were having a great time. A local soccer court that is entirely normal in all respects except for the big tree growing right in the middle of the playing field! (What better way to encourage young players to carry the ball with their head up?) Then Iio said 'Follow me!', and we did.

We now cut through the neighborhood and headed towards the train tracks, but one station further up the line from where we had arrived. I was thinking that he was going to escort us to the station to take the train back home, but we then crossed the tracks and he darted into a shop on a side-street for a minute. Emerging with a package in hand, he pointed to a high-rise two blocks away and stated 'My apartment'. It was evident that he wanted us to accompany him there. This presented a bit of a dilemma to us; should we go with a man we had only just now met? What could he possibly want from us? Still, with safety in numbers, we went, although Sandra admitted to me after that this was outside her 'comfort zone', (which is wider than most, I must add).

It turns out that Iio and his wife, (they have no children), live in a typical Japanese apartment. Inside they had many luxury items, including a full-size fridge, a stove with an oven, and even a wide-screen TV. (Stoves with an oven and full-size fridges are rare items in most Tokyo apartments; there is not sufficient room. Many Japanese fix only light meals, and eat out at restaurants frequently). However, to Western eyes, their place is very small; perhaps 450 square feet in all. There is a small entrance, with a raised hallway just beyond. This is the clue that one removes their shoes here, and puts on slippers provided for all guests. Just off the hallway is a bathroom and a small laundry room. Cutting through the small Galley kitchen one comes to the main part of the apartment, a combination living and dining room with a table and chairs, the TV, a small china cabinet and a laptop computer. This is where the family spends their time. A small balcony at the side allows one to sit out in the fresh air.

Small, but comfortable, the living space is tight, but what really strikes one is that the living room also converts into the sleeping area when mats stored in the closet are rolled out. This turns the compact living space into a bedroom! One could only imagine this same space accommodating a family, as is normally the case! In part, this aspect of Japanese culture explains their inherent politeness; it is necessary if people are going to live in such confined areas. Also, it is very common to see people sitting by themselves in coffee shops and restaurants, reading a book, doing homework or surfing on a laptop computer. This is done in order to enjoy a bit of privacy, even though one is actually in public. (It is not unusual to see apartments for rent measure the size by the number of sleeping mats that can fit into this one room).

Even so, Iio was a perfect host, chatting with us about his trip to Canada, where he landed in Vancouver and drove through Banff to Calgary, and then back. He served us, his cold and curious guests, Japanese Green Tea in delicate china cups. Once the steaming tea was poured, Iio revealled that he had picked up some traditional Japanese treats for us. These came in the shape of a green pastry, with a sweet bean paste interior. They were quite differentfrom anything I have ever eaten, but were quite good. Following this, Iio gave us sliced Japanese Oranges. Next, our gracious host served a dish of pickled cucumber and turnip; very different also. Not content to simply leave it at that, Iio then staged an impromtu tour of his fridge, patiently explaining what he had inside. He then made us coffee, and served it with Japanese peanut cookies, which were very different from what we know in Canada.

As we happily muched and drank the beveridges, the conversation was most interesting, although it was necessary to consult an electronic translation device frequently in order to get various concepts across. Iio insisted that his English was not very good, but typical of the Japanese, they are modest about their abilities. At one point Iio proudly showed us one of his souvenirs from Canada; a cow hand-puppet from the Cows ice cream shop in Vancouver. He is an avid collector of cow merchandise, and thought that the francise was great! The time flew by, and soon we had spent 1.5 hours together, but it was now time to return home. Iio then gave us the gift of two packages of Japanese snacks and escorted us personally to the trainstation to make sure that we did not get lost. Saying our goodbyes at the station, all I could do was remove the small Canadian Flag pin that I wore on my jacket, and present it to him. Iio smiled broadly, and waved his thanks.

It is this aspect of Japanese culture that is so striking in its kindness and consideration to Westerners like us. It is almost overwhelming at times; Iio did not want anything from us, he just wanted to show kindess to strangers. I could only imagine what the typical Canadian would have done in a similar situation; mumble some vague directions, and quickly cast off the visitor to leave them flounding for themselves. Certainly they would have never been personally escorted about, let alone invited home, and even given parting gifts when they departed! Especially when there are both language and cultural barriers that make interaction difficult. Saying goodbye to Mr. Taichi at the trainstation.

We returned home from the day with an even greater respect for Japanese culture, and their openess and kindness. To Mr. Iio Taichi, we say Domo Arigato Gozimus, and we hope one day to be able to reciprocate your wonderful generousity. We left our cards, and told him to call us if ever he is in the area; he is going to Canada in May, so we will see. And, we all resolved that in the future we would show greater consideration to tourists that we encounter in our hometowns. Thank you, Mr Taichi-San; you are a true ambassador for Japan, and you made a doubtful day into a truly memorable one!


Doug-San in Japan

Saying Sanayora for now!

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